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A Breath of Mountain
Air--Yangmingshan
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| Steamed
mantou buns come in many different flavors and colors on
Yanmingshan. |
Formerly known as Tsao Shan (Grass Mountain), Yangmingshan was renamed by former president Chiang Kai-shek to honor the 16th-century scholar Wang Yangming. The peaks of Yangmingshan were home some 400 years ago to a tribe of Aborigines called the Ketagalan, and their former presence here is reflected in the origin of many local place names. The area was also an important center of sulfur production in the past. During the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese brought their love of hot spring baths with them to Taiwan, and they built many hot spring spas in the Yangmingshan area. This was the beginning of the tradition of hot spring bathing here.
Yangmingshan was set aside as a national park in 1985. Twelve different hiking paths wind their way through the 10,000-plus hectares of wooded mountain slopes in the park, which serves as Taipei City's most important greenbelt. The mountain's volcanic origins have left it with many stunning natural rock formations and unusual volcanic scenery. At Hsiao You Keng, piping hot steam hisses out of cracks in ground as barren as the moon, as the pungent scent of sulfur assails the nostrils. Meanwhile, the semi-spherical crater at Leng Shui Keng is the site of the only sulfur flat in all of Taiwan.
Not far from Leng Shui Keng is Chutzuhu ("Bamboo Lake"), where a lake was created in prehistoric times when a volcanic eruption sent debris rumbling into a valley, where it dammed up a stream. Chutzuhu in recent years has become noted for its many flowers, especially the calla lilies that bloom every year from December. The lily petals blanket the area's terraced fields in a sea of pure white. When a fog drifts in, you'd think you were suddenly in a fairy-tale land.
When you head for Yangmingshan, it's always a good idea to enjoy the area's abundant natural beauty before taking a nice long soak in a hot spring and topping off the experience with a meal of vegetables harvested from the surrounding mountains. And after you're finished eating, how about an intellectually stimulating visit to the Lin Yutang Memorial Library, or Yangming Villa, where President Chiang Kai-shek spent much of his final years" On the other hand, maybe you'd prefer to hit the cultural spots first and follow up with hot springs and a meal. Either way, be sure you don't miss the spectacular night view of Taipei on your way back home. Better yet, spend the night on the mountain. What could be more
romantic?
There's also plenty to keep you interested at night on Yangmingshan, especially the thunderous chorus of the bullfrogs from October through March every year. If you're looking for world-class "music," there's more in Taipei than just the National Symphony Hall--check out the Yangmingshan National Park!
Dr. Lin Yutang Memorial Library
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| These white Spanish-style columns support a roof of royal-blue tiles. The Lin Yutang Memorial Library is a finely crafted architectural gem. |
One foor planted in the East, one in the West.One mind to take in all the writings of the world.
Dr. Lin Yutang was one the greatest cultural figures of China's early Republican period, and the above couplet gives an idea of his voracious reading habits and broad knowledge of East and West. One of the most humorous Chinese writers of his time, Lin held a Master's degree in literature from Harvard University and a doctorate in linguistics from the University of Leipzig. He went on to serve as chancellor of Nanyang University in Singapore and as director of the Arts and Letters Division of UNESCO.
Lin wrote in both Chinese and English his whole life long, and also found time to translate 70 or 80 books on Eastern and Western literature, history, philosophy, and more. He also edited a Chinese-English dictionary, founded three Chinese-language magazines, and after 30 years of research invented a Chinese typewriter.
After spending many years abroad, Dr. Lin realized late in life his long-held wish to move back to Taiwan. The library on Yangmingshan that now carries his name was where he lived for ten years. He had the following to say about his home: "On the premises there is a garden. In the garden there is a house. In the house there is a courtyard. In the courtyard there is a tree. Above the tree there is sky. In the sky there is a moon. What a fortunate man I am!"
In addition to materials and models produced by Dr. Lin in connection with his invention of a Chinese typewriter, many books, manuscripts, and works of calligraphy and painting by the great scholar are also on display at the library, which was renovated just a few years ago.
No. 141, Yangte Ave. Sec. 2, Shihlin District, Taipei
Tel: (02) 2861-3003
Open 09:00-7:00 (closed on Mondays)
How to get there: Bus 260 or 303, or minibus 15, 16, 17 or Red 5 as far as
Yungfu. |
Yangming Villa
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| Yangming Villa recently reopened to the general public after 30 years. Former president Chiang Kai-shek had used it as a residence--the largest he built in Taiwan--in the latter years of his life. |
Closed to the public for 30 years, the mystery-shrouded Yangming Villa finally reopened in 1998. If you're headed to one of the hot springs in the Chutzuhu area, you won't want to miss this masterpiece of a villa ensconced deep within a heavily wooded property.
Yangming Villa was originally known as the Chung Hsing Guesthouse, and served as the residence of Chiang Kai-shek in his final years. After Chiang passed away, the KMT Party History Commission moved into the villa in 1979 and remained there until 1996. Of particular interest to historians is the fact that the Chung Hsing Guesthouse once housed the "Tashi Files"--a goldmine of documents and manuscripts related to Chiang's KMT activities.
With some 1,000 square meters of floor space, Yangming Villa was the largest of various residences built by Chiang. The structure's dark green exterior and its location amidst a thick forest remind one of a fortified bunker, and indeed, the site is chock-a-block with bunkers, army barracks, sentry posts, and secret tunnels, all to ensure the safety of the late president.
The interior furnishings are all in the same condition as when Chiang lived in the villa. The president's former home also features life-size portraits of Chiang Kai-shek and Sun Yat-sen, clothes once worn by the president, and porcelain dishes decorated with ink-wash paintings, used by Mme. Chiang Kai-shek.
The plum trees so loved by Chiang Kai-shek, and the camellias and osmanthus favored by Mme. Chiang, have now grown into mature trees. The stone bench next to the pond is where the two often sat together feeding the fish.
Standing on the second-floor veranda, one can see all the way to the Tanshui and Keelung Rivers snaking their way through the Taipei Basin far below, while the Tatun Mountains tower to the west and Mt. Shaomao stands guard on the east. The scenic beauty is outstanding.
Open 09:00--16:30, Tuesday to Sunday. Individual visitors admitted only at 09:00 and 13:30. Groups admitted hourly. Groups of 20 or more must book two weeks in advance. Only Chinese-speaking guides available.
Tel: (02) 2861-1444 |
International Hotel
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| A bright sun shines down on an old stone wall redolent of an earlier time. The communal bath at International Hotel is a favorite of many hot spring connoisseurs. |
Just on the other side of the fence from Chienshan Park is the International Hotel. The oldest hot spring resort on Yangmingshan, this hotel first opened in 1952.
Cattie-corner across the street from the hotel is Chungshan Hall, where the National Assembly meets. When the Assembly is in session, VIPs often stop off at the International for a break. Former president Chiang Ching-kuo was one of the hotel's more illustrious guests.
With its convenient transportation and inexpensive hot springs, the hotel is a favorite with hikers, who like to stop off for a dip in the communal bath after working up a sweat in the hills. Long-time customers point out that the hotel is only about 400 meters from the spring that feeds its baths, the water gushes through in torrents, and it's just the right temperature so the hotel doesn't have to heat the water or mix in cool water from other sources. The 100% natural spring water is unbeatable!
No. 7, Hushan Rd. Sec. 1, Yangmingshan
Tel: (02) 2861-6022
Open 07:00"1:00
How to get there: Bus 230 or 260 to Yangmingshan terminus. It's a three-minute walk to the hotel.
Charges: Communal bath NT$80; Half-day room from NT$880; Overnight from NT$2090 |
Pine Gardens
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A beautiful mountain landscape awaits visitors to the communal bath at Pine Gardens. |
The spacious seven-hectare grounds of Pine Gardens are well known for their 20,000 black pines and 5,000 spruce trees. In addition to hot springs, Pine Gardens also has an obstacle course, a nature trail where visitors can learn about various flora and fauna, and a recreation area for children. There's something for everyone!
After you finish soaking in a hot spring, it is an exquisite pleasure to take a tea set to the tea-drinking area right next to the creek, where you can listen to the bubbling springs, gaze upon a beautiful waterfall, and enjoy fine-quality tea. What could be better?
No. 160, Lane 101, Chingshan Rd., Taipei. Tel: (02) 2861-3578
Open 09:00-18:00 (closed on Mondays)
How to get there: MRT Tamshui line to Chientan, then bus Red 15. On weekends also bus 230 or 260 to Yangmingshan terminus, then bus 108 as far as Pine Gardens. By car, take Yangte Avenue and turn onto Chingshan Road at the McDonald's. Follow the signs to Pine Gardens.
Admission: NT$200 (children NT$150) |
Sun Moon Villa Hot Spring Resort
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| Sun Moon Villa Hot Spring Resort has a distinctively rural character. Various bathing items are sold at the entrance to the baths. |
Driving along the Yangming- shan-Chinshan Highway, you will find Sun Moon Villa Hot Spring Resort just after you pass over the Matsao Bridge with its white arch.
Located in a basin and hemmed in by mountains on three sides, the weather can change rapidly at Sun Moon Villa, for it is said of Yangmingshan that all four seasons can be experienced in a single day. One minute it is all blue skies, and the next minute the entire mountain is blanketed in dense fog. Apart from enjoying hot springs and fine tea, the visitor can also sometimes come unexpectedly upon squirrels--always a rare treat for someone from Taipei--or the Formosan blue magpie, which is on the protected species list.
While you're here, you might make a point of tasting special local varieties of lettuce, chuan qi (Polygonum chinense), day lily, and spring rolls stuffed with yam and shrimp.
No. 8, Lane 211, Chutzuhu Road, Taipei
Tel: (02) 2861-4096
Open 07:00-24:00 (03:00 Fridays and Saturdays)
How to get there: Royal Bus, Chinshan line, as far as Chitu. By car, take the Yangmingshan-Chinshan Highway and turn left at the sign about 650 meters past the Matsao Bridge.
Admission: NT$120 (hot spring bath is free of charge for customers who spend over NT$500 on a meal) |
Yangming Tienlai Spring Resort
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| Tienlai Spring Resort offers baths with 15 different types of therapeutic benefits. |
Yangming Tienlai Spring Resort, which opened its doors to the public in 1998, is the first five-star hot spring resort in the Yangmingshan area.
The lavishly equipped outdoor hot springs bath, which covers an area of some 2,000 square meters, combines the pleasure of hot springs with the spectacular natural beauty and clear mountain air of Yangmingshan. The resort has 15 different types of pools for bathers. One has a waterfall-type cascade that pours soothingly over the head and shoulders. Other pools are filled with herbal medicines, teas, or wines and spirits which offer a variety of aromas and medicinal properties. Some of the more unusual ones include a marble bath where steam is used to keep the marble at a constant temperature, and a bath made of Chinese juniper, where visitors enjoy the scent of the wood as they alternate between hot water and a steam room much the way one does at an outdoor sauna. The pores open up completely, and the feeling of luxurious comfort is incomparable.
In addition to a spring-fed swimming pool, the resort also features a big swimming pool, an archery range, croquet lawn, squash, miniature golf, fitness center, and many other athletic facilities, all of which are available for a fee.
Tienlai rents vans to visitors staying at the hotel and organizes excursions to nearby sights.
1-7 Mingliu Road, Chinshan, Taipei County
Tel: (02) 2408-0000
Open 07:00-24:00
How to get there: Royal Bus, as far as Yangming Tienlai Spring Resort. By car, take Yangte Avenue to the Yangminshan-Chinshan Highway. Tienlai is 15 minutes past Matsao.
Charges: NT$600 (children NT$480) on weekdays, NT$800 (children NT$640) holidays and weekends. Overnight from NT$5,500 |
Yangmingshan's Pulic Hot Springs-Free Entry There's more to Yangmingshan than five-star hotels, Japanese-style hot spring resorts, and down-home hot spring restaurants. Yes, for absolutely free, you can enjoy a totally different type of hot spring experience at the area's various public hot springs.
Chienshan Park Public Hot Spring
In Chienshan Park, just past the lotus pond, there is a round building that houses a public hot spring for men. The rectangular building next to it is for women.
Open 05:00-19:00
How to get there: Bus 230 or 260 to Yangmingshan terminus. |
Leng Shui Keng Public Hot Spring
With all the area's geothermal activity, the hot springs of Yangmingshan
burble out of the ground at many different temperatures and with many different types of mineral content. At the public hot spring located right next to the tourist service center in Leng Shui Keng, water heated deep underground mixes with cold water gushing out of a volcanic scar in the earth. The water here is only about 40, hence the name Leng Shui Keng, i.e. "cold water pit."
Just as at Chienshan Park, there are separate public baths here for men and women. The baths here are smaller, but there is a shallow pool where people who can't be bothered to take off all their clothes can still soak their feet, which is a pleasure in itself.
Open 24 hours.
How to get there: Minibus 15 from Chungcheng Road in Shihlin District, as far as the tourist service center. On holidays and weekends, you can also take bus 108, which makes the rounds of various recreation spots. By car, take Yangte Avenue, turn onto Chingshan Road and follow it to Leng Shui Keng. |
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