Old Taipei, New World
The Po Tun Barber Shop (in the Ambassador Hotel)

The veteran barbers at Po Tun need only a glance to determine the most suitable hair style for a man. The photo shows Pei Kwang-chu, who has been running the establishment for over 30 years.

In the basement of the Ambas-sador Hotel you can find the Po Tun Barber Shop, which has been in business for over 30 years. Many political and business heavyweights come here regularly to turn their "3000 strands of worry" over to the capable hands of the elderly stylists. Here you can sit in peace for an hour, enjoying a wash, cut, head-and-shoulders massage, facial, shave, manicure, and ear-cleaning, thinking of absolutely nothing while you enjoy some of life's greatest pleasures.

Po Tun is a barber shop in the Shanghai mode. Pei Kwang-chu, 77 this year, is in charge of the small shop, which boasts four old hair styling masters from Shanghai devoting their autumn years to serving their customers. Pei says that it looks easy to take care of men's hair, but there is a lot to know. No matter how fashions for color, length, or curliness may change, a man's hair should suit his occupation, social position, and head shape, as well as the types of occasion that he is called upon to attend. The best thing about the shop's veteran barbers is that they can tell in a glance what hairstyle is called for in each customer's case.

So-called "Shanghai-style" refers mainly to the techniques used. Men's hair is more difficult to manage than women's hair, since men want to keep the same hairstyle without using blow dryers or hair oil, and without having to worry about wind or rain. So you have to really have skill "down to the roots" in order to make men's hair behave and hold steady under any circumstances.

Hours: 08:00-18:20, weekends/holidays to 15:30 Address: No. 63, Chungshan N. Rd. Sec. 2, Taipei Tel: (02) 2551-1151 ext 2694

Lin Tien Wooden Barrel Shop

The Lin Tien Wooden Barrel Shop has all kinds of wooden containers and tubs--flower holders, foot-soaking basins, rice barrels, and more--stacked up all over the premises.

On the busy corner of Chung- shan North Road and Chang-an East Road, an old cooper's shop really catches the eye. The paint-splattered aluminum sign shows indications of the passing years, while a newer blue pennant hanging over the shop states plainly that the Lin Tien Wooden Barrel Shop was founded in 1928. Figure it out: That's 75 years of history.

The founder of the shop was Lin Hsin-chu, and it is now run by the second generation, in the person of Lin Hsiang-lin, who is preparing to pass it on to his son Lin Huang-yi. Three generations, all coopers, have kept this physically decaying old shop as spritely as an infant. Lin Hsiang-lin, who only speaks Taiwanese, says that it takes three years and four months of training (the traditional length of an apprenticeship in Taiwan) to become a cooper. Though he had apprentices in the past, they all switched over to the more profitable line of woodworking. Fortunately Lin's son is willing to carry on the work, so that the Lin Tien tradition can continue uninterrupted in the 21st century.
 
Lin Huang-yi, a bit shy by nature, says that his own skills are not yet mature, and he needs much more practice. So he often works together with his father, especially when doing the most difficult job: building a wooden bathtub. In fact, bathtubs are the 烞tar?products at Lin Tien, and especially now, when the fad for things Japanese has many yuppies tossing out their fiberglass bathtubs in exchange for wooden versions, father and son have been kept working without a break.

Lin Tien has every kind of traditional wooden barrel: little wooden scoop barrels for pouring water over oneself while bathing, wooden flower pots, wooden foot-soaking basins, rice barrels…Some even have "high" and "low" seasons. For example, rice barrels sell especially well around Dragon Boat Festival.
 
Lin Hsiang-yi points to two similar-looking barrels, then reveals that one is more than twice as expensive as the other. Lin explains that juniper and fir have different characters, and what wood is best depends on the intended function. For example, bathtubs use juniper, but fir is good enough for a water barrel. Though barrel-making is disappearing from city life, there are plenty of nostalgic folk around, hopefully enough to keep Lin Tien going from generation to generation. 
 

Hours: 10:30-20:30 (Sundays 10:30-12:00) Address: No. 108, Chungshan N. Rd. Sec. 1, Taipei Tel: (02) 2541-1354

Regent Galleria

The Regent Galleria, gathering together the world's top 20 brand names, is certainly an eyeful.

TNowhere in Taiwan is there a place like the Regent Galleria. In less than 200 meters are gathered together the world's 20 leading brands. Moreover, virtually every boutique has its complete product line on display. And the biggest surprise for consumers is that they even have formal evening attire. So, if you want to do a Julia Roberts-Richard Gere routine like in the film Pretty Woman, and change your entire persona overnight, that poses no problem at the Galleria! Prices are about the same as in Hong Kong, while the fashions are right in step with Milan and Paris.

The most eye-catching shops in the Galleria include Chanel fashion and jewelry, Prada leather goods (very much in vogue these days), Tiffany, Cartier, Christian Dior, the first Hermes boutique in Taiwan, Boss men's fashion, Georg Jensen silver jewelry, Polo and Ralph Lauren.

Don't assume that Regent Galleria is only for the wealthy! Ordinary shoppers can also find rewards here. NT$2000 (about US$60) can get you a beautifully packaged Tiffany ring, and for NT$1000 or so you can acquire a Georg Jensen silver chain. Because fashion allows no time lag, every time the seasons change, selected products go on sale, and it wouldn't be strange in the least at these times to see a veteran shopper walking away with a dozen Prada bags at once.

Hours: 10:00-21:00 daily.  Address: No. 3, Lane 39, Chungshan N. Rd. Sec. 2, Taipei (in the Grand Formosa Regent Hotel) Tel: (02) 2561-9122 ext. 568 or 569

Tienmu

Tienmu has a strong foreign flavor; check out this interesting display window.

Back in the days when there were large numbers of American soldiers in Taiwan, there was an American barracks in Tienmu, which has remained one of the places with the highest concentrations of foreign residents in Taiwan. The Taipei American School and the Taipei Japanese School are both located on Chungshan North Road in Tienmu.

Because of the foreign presence, and because Tienmu is one of the most expensive of Taipei's residential neighborhoods, the commercial circle in Tienmu has a certain aristocratic and exotic feel about it, and it attracts many shoppers who are particular about brand names. From the shops, restaurants, languages, and people you brush shoulders with, it is easy to think for a moment that you are abroad. Many tourists and overseas Chinese come to Tienmu for an afternoon of shopping, coffee, and perhaps French or Italian food for dinner, followed by a beer or two at an English-style pub where they can listen to jazz. It's a day worth the price of an air ticket.

The cuisine in Tienmu, which makes foreigners recall Mom's home cooking, is especially noteworthy. Establishments include Taiwan's first garden restaurant, a cheese-cake bakery that always has long lines in front, and a French restaurant opened by a former hotel chef. Tienmu has restaurants offering American, Japanese, Korean, Mexican, Italian, French, Canadian, German, Swiss, Vietnamese, and other foods. On the other hand, there are relatively few Chinese restaurants, as they have lost in out in competition with more exotic offerings.

Another special feature of the Tienmu shopping district is the number of quirky and unique coffee shops. There are strongholds of everything from espresso to drip to filtered coffee, and each shop reflects the individual character of its owner. Some feature flowers, others baked goods, others open-air space... The coffee shops reveal the extent to which foreign cultures have penetrated Tienmu.


Shihlin Night Market

Shilin Night Market has the greatest selection of foods (including grilled squid) of any street market in Taipei.

When you turn off Chung- shan North Road to the nearby junction of Wenlin and Tatung roads, you are at the oldest and biggest night market in Taipei─he Shihlin Night Market. This is a shopping paradise for students in particular, because no matter what, from name-brand goods to street hawkers'factory seconds, everything is cheaper when you buy it here. This especially applies to T-shirts, athletic shoes, casual attire, and teen fashions. Moreover, in both design and in the images with which they are printed, Shihlin's products are always at the cutting edge of pop fashion. This is why the market is always so crowded you can hardly even take a step.

Foreign visitors also enjoy Shihlin, and those in the know ask specifically to be shown around this night market. The Government Information Office, which hosts many foreign dignitaries, reveals that one visitor bought more than 50 T-shirts to take home as souvenir gifts.

Just how cheap are the items in the Shihlin Night Market? Try this on for size: T-shirts, NT$69 (US$2) each, two for NT$100. Name-brand T-shirts, as low as NT$100 each. A teen girl's outfit, NT$390 (about US$12). A boy's shirt, NT$290. You can even find name-brand jogging shoes like Nikes piled up in front of a store for NT$490 a pair.

And beyond the shopping, Shihlin Night Market is the strongest of strongholds of street cuisine in Taiwan. Stand in front of the Kuang Hua Theaters, at the entrance to the night market, and you are nearly knocked over by the grill smoke: nothing, from chicken to kebabs to corn on the cob and even 烞tinky tofu,?escapes that smoky flavor. Meanwhile, street stalls selling meat and veggie dumplings, fried on a hotplate, always have long lines in front of them.
Next, turn left from Tatung Road into the very heart of the night market, where smoke from frying oil and the sounds of banging utensils are ubiquitous. There you can enjoy specialties like pancakes-wrapped-in-pancakes, fried octopus, deep-fried stinky tofu, Cantonese congee, and clams in a bed of fried egg. Though you will emerge covered in sweat, it will be with an appreciation for the wonderful colors, sounds, and tastes of night market cuisine.


Ching Kuang Market

Ching Kuang's vendors specialize in selling imported clothing and cosmetics at low prices, attracting many discerning shoppers.

The Ching Kuang Market, on the corner of Chungshan North Road and Nung-an Street, is the oldest imported goods market in Taipei. It traces its roots back to the 1950s and 1960s, when there were many American troops in Taiwan. Today, 40 years down the road, there are still all kinds of specialty shops selling women's fashion, cosmetics, shoes, bags, accessories…..The products generally keep up with the latest fashions, and there's lots of room for haggling over the price. That is why, no matter how many new shops open, the Ching Kuang survives. 

In May 2000, the Ching Kuang Market, which was getting dilapidated, was refurbished, and now boasts a retractable roof. When the roof is open and the sun is shining down, shopping is even more enjoyable. Shops here bring in many imported products in parallel with the big stores, and their prices are generally 10-30% cheaper than at department stores. Many knowledgeable customers prefer to shop here.

The Ching Kuang also boasts many venerable old street hawker stands, so that you never tire of eating here. The food they sell includes light Nantou noodles, "sister-in-law?noodles, sticky rice with filling, and squid stew. These street stalls are packed even when it is not mealtime, as people stream through the newly refurbished market.

In addition, Shuangcheng Street, adjacent to the market, has food stalls open 24 hours a day, including ones serving authentic Tainan rice-pudding (garnished with meat, shrimp, mushrooms, etc), rice cakes, fish ball and pig intestine soup, and much more. The other end of Shuangcheng Street boasts the highest concentration of pubs of any roadway in Taipei, and many foreigners frequent the area. With Ching Kuang taking the day shift and Shuangcheng Street taking over at night, the eating, drinking, and fun never stop.

The most representative Hunan dish is General Tso's chicken, a combination of raw hot peppers and wok-fried chicken pieces. Other specialties of the house include "Noble ham" with honey syrup, sliced sea bream soup, braised sea cucumber with oyster sauce, and swallow's nest with pea soup. The menu changes every four months, so there is always something new for customers to try.

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