Taiwan Yearbook 2007
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1. Geography

With a number of peaks more than 2,000 meters high, the Alishan Mountains are famed for their glorious sunrises, mystical cloud scenes, and crisp alpine air. (Sung Tsai-hsia, courtesy of the Tourism Bureau)
At a Glance

Taiwan is an oceanic nation of 23 million people. Situated in the West Pacific between Japan and the Philippines, it comprises the main island of Taiwan, the archipelagoes of Penghu (the Pescadores), Kinmen (Quemoy), and Matsu, and a number of other islands. Its combined area is approximately 36,000 sq. km (13,900 sq. miles), or slightly smaller than the Netherlands.

Taiwan Proper

Taiwan proper, measuring nearly 400 km from north to south and around 145 km from east to west at its widest, constitutes 99 percent of the total area under the nation's jurisdiction.

As the island lies along a seismic belt, tectonic movement dictates some of its most prominent geological characteristics. A tilted fault block runs down the center of the island to form the central mountain ranges and, to the east of the island, a narrow longitudinal fault valley stands between this fault block and the Pacific Ocean. The slopes of the block's western flank descend gradually, giving way to fertile coastal plains where the majority of people, agriculture, and industry is concentrated. The island's shoreline is relatively unbroken, with small areas of coral reef around its southernmost tip.

Taiwan proper can be divided into five major physiographical divisions: mountain ranges, volcanic mountains, foothills, tablelands, and coastal plains and basins.

Mountain Ranges

Taiwan's five longitudinal mountain ranges, which are mostly forested, occupy almost half the island, with more than two hundred peaks over 3,000 meters. Steep mountains over 1,000 meters high constitute about 31 percent of the island's total land area, making for some of the island's most dramatic and beautiful scenery. As a group, the mountain ranges extend 330 km from north to south, almost the entire length of the island, and an average of about 80 km from east to west. The highest peak is Jade Mountain at 3,952 meters tall, which is also the highest mountain in East Asia.

Extending down the eastern half of Taiwan proper, the Central Mountains serve as the island's major watershed. The range is mostly composed of hard rock formations resistant to weathering and erosion, although heavy rainfall has deeply scarred the sides with gorges and sharp valleys. The Syue Mountains lie to the northwest of the Central Mountains, gaining in elevation as they extend southwards. The Jade Mountains—home to Jade Mountain—run along the southwestern flank of the Central Mountains. To their west are the Alishan Mountains, with elevations of mainly between 1,000 and 2,000 meters. The East Coast Mountains, located east of the narrow fault valley in east Taiwan, consist chiefly of sandstone and shale and are mostly composed of large hills.

High Peaks in Taiwan (meters)
Jade Mountain (Mt. Morrison)
 Main Peak 3,952
 Eastern Peak 3,940
 Northern Peak 3,920
 Southern Peak 3,900
 Syue Mountain (Mt. Sylvia) 3,886
Siouguluan Mountain 3,860
Wulameng Mountain 3,805
Nanhu Mountain 3,740
Central Range Point 3,703
Guan Mountain 3,666
Dongjyun Mountain 3,619
Cilai Mountain  
 Northern Peak 3,605
 Main Peak 3,559
Siangyang Mountain 3,603
Dajian Mountain 3,593
Cloud Peak 3,562
Dasyue Mountain 3,529
Tao Mountain 3,325
Pintian Mountain 3,524
Dabajian Mountain 3,505
Wuming Mountain 3,451
Hehuan Mountain 3,416
Nenggao Mountain  
 Southern Peak 3,349
 Main Peak 3,261
Jhuoshe Mountain 3,343
Baigu Mountain 3,341
Sinkang Mountain 3,335
Taroko Mountain 3,282
Dan Mountain 3,240
Source: Ministry of the Interior  

Volcanic Mountains

Small outcrops of igneous rock are scattered over the island, representing at least five periods of igneous activity. While Taiwan's many volcanoes are either dormant or extinct, geothermal activity has produced many hot springs across the island. Popular for their reputed therapeutic properties, these springs attract tens of thousands of foreign visitors each year. The Datun Mountain area, known for its hot springs and fumaroles, is a prominent group of volcanic peaks lying across the promontory between Keelung Port and the Danshuei River.

Foothills

Taiwan's foothills form a narrow zone running mostly along the western edge of the island's central mountain ranges. This geologic area is relatively rich in coal and oil, and has therefore been mapped and studied extensively. Characteristic topographic features of the zone include low hills, longitudinal valleys, and broad fault scarps.

The foothill region located between Fongyuan (north of Taichung) and Nantou is the largest section of foothills in Taiwan. These foothills are separated from the Keelung-Miaoli foothills in the north by shallow geologic faults and are intersected by three major rivers, the Dajia, Dadu, and Jhuoshuei. The Sun Moon Lake Basin lying about 765 meters above sea level, is also included in the region. Prominent foothill belts in southern Taiwan include those between Chiayi and Pingtung, and the Hengchun foothills, which occupy most of the Hengchun Peninsula.

Terrace Tablelands

Below the foothills, Taiwan's terrain gradually reduces in height to tablelands of 100 to 500 meters. These thick deposits of sandstone gravel come mostly from eroded material that has been washed down from higher areas, though some gravel beds may have been deposited near the sea and then raised into flat-topped tablelands by recent tilting. The broadest tableland is the Taoyuan Terrace in northeast Taiwan. Next in size are the Houli Terrace in Taichung, the Dadu and Bagua terraces in Changhua, and the Hengchun Terrace in southern Taiwan.

Coastal Plains and Basins

Traveling further away from the central mountain ranges, the tablelands and foothills merge into broad alluvial plains sitting at an average altitude of less than 100 meters above sea level. The plains are composed mainly of gravel, sand, and clay and endow Taiwan with a larger proportion of arable level land than either Japan or the Philippines. The western shore of the plain, which meets with the Taiwan Strait, is marked by wide tidal flats. Shore currents have built up a series of spits and sandbars, thus also forming many lagoons. All of the larger rivers running through the plains have their sources in the high mountains. As they emerge from the foothills, these rivers diverge into a number of channels by which they meander to the ocean, forming large alluvial deltas. Many of these rivers have been linked by irrigation and drainage canals.

The vast Jianan Plain in southwest Taiwan extends from Changhua in central Taiwan to Kaohsiung in the south and accounts for 12 percent of the total land area of Taiwan. Next largest are the Pingtung Plain in the south and the Yilan Plain in the northeast. There are two major basins in Taiwan: the Taipei Basin and the Taichung Basin.

Rivers and Lakes

There are 151 rivers and streams in Taiwan. Jhuoshuei River in central Taiwan is the longest (187 km) and Gaoping River in the south has the largest drainage basin (3,257 sq. km). With the Central Mountains acting as Taiwan's main watershed, most rivers and streams in Taiwan flow in either an easterly or westerly direction. They are short and steep, especially in the east, and can become torrential during rainstorms, carrying large amounts of mud and silt. Riverbeds tend to be wide and shallow, making management and development of water resources difficult.

There are relatively few lakes in Taiwan. Most are located in western Taiwan and many have been transformed into reservoirs for storage, irrigation, and water supply purposes. Sun Moon Lake in Nantou County, with an area of 8 sq. km and depth of 30 meters, is the island's largest and deepest lake. Longluan Lake on the Hengchun Peninsula and Liyu Lake in Hualien County are the second and third largest lakes on the island, with areas of around one sq. km each. There are also a dozen high mountain lakes in the Syue Mountains and Central Mountains. Jiaming Lake in the southern section of the Central Mountains is the only one to have formed in a meteor crater.

Major Rivers in Taiwan
River Drainage(sq. km) Length(km) Passes Through
Lanyang River 978 73 Yilan County
Danshuei River 2,726 159 Taipei City, and Taipei and Taoyuan counties
Toucian River 566 63 Hsinchu City and County
Fongshan River 250 45 Hsinchu County
Jhonggang River 446 54 Hsinchu and Miaoli counties
Houlong River 537 58 Miaoli County
Da-an River 758 96 Miaoli and Taichung counties
Dajia River 1,236 124 Taichung County
Wu River 2,026 119 Taichung, Changhua,and Nantou counties
Jhuoshuei River 3,157 187 Nantou, Changhua, and Yunlin counties
Beigang River 645 82 Yunlin and Chiayi counties
Puzih River 426 76 Chiayi City and County
Bajhang River 475 81 Chiayi and Tainan counties
Jishuei River 379 65 Tainan County
Zengwun River 1,177 138 Tainan City, and Chiayi and Tainan counties
Yanshuei River 340 41 Tainan City and County
Erren River 339 61 Tainan City, Tainan and Kaohsiung counties
Agongdian River 137 38 Kaohsiung County
Gaoping River 3,257 171 Kaohsiung and Pingtung counties
Donggang River 472 44 Pingtung County
Sihchong River 125 32 Pingtung County
Beinan River 1,603 84 Taitung County
Heping River 562 48 Yilan and Hualien counties
Siouguluan River 1,790 81 Hualien County
Hualien River 1,507 57 Hualien County
Source: Ministry of the Interior; Water Resources Agency, Ministry of Economic Affairs

Flora and Fauna

Taiwan's tropical-to-temperate spectrum of climatic zones and contrasting topographies has endowed the island with a rich diversity of flora and fauna. Some 70 species of mammals, 500 species of birds (40 percent of which reside on the island all year round), 90 species of reptiles, 30 species of amphibians, 2,700 species of fish, and 18,000 identified species of insects (including some 400 butterfly species) are known to inhabit Taiwan. The abundant plant life in Taiwan includes 610 species of ferns, 28 species of gymnosperms, and 3,600 species of angiosperms.

In springtime, emerald-green seaweed covers wave-worn rocks along Taiwan's northern coast. (Chen Yuan-ching, courtesy of the Tourism Bureau)

According to the Council of Agriculture (COA), around 27 percent of vascular plant species and 11 percent of animal species found on the island are endemic to Taiwan. The government established a research institute in 1992 to better conserve these species.

Perhaps the most famous Taiwanese species of fauna is the Formosan landlocked salmon. It is believed to have become trapped in the frigid mountain waters of central Taiwan during the last Ice Age when ocean levels dropped dramatically and the salmon could no longer migrate back and forth from fresh water to salt water. Overfishing and pollution have damaged much of the salmon's natural habitat, causing the distribution and population to shrink dramatically. In 1989, the COA listed the Formosan landlocked salmon as an endangered species in accordance with the Wildlife Conservation Act, and in 1997 the Taichung County government established the Formosan Landlocked Salmon Refuge in the upper reaches of the Dajia River in Shei-pa National Park.

Climate

Though a wide range of climatic zones can be found across Taiwan, the area generally enjoys an oceanic and subtropical monsoon climate. Summers are long with high humidity; winters are short and usually mild, though snow is visible on the peaks of high mountains during the coldest months. Frost is rare in the lowlands where most of the population is concentrated. Mean monthly temperatures range from 15°C to 20°C in the winter to around 28°C in the summer. The highest (40.2°C in May 2004) and lowest (-1.0°C in February 1901) urban temperatures were recorded in Taitung and Taichung, respectively. Taiwan's surface temperature has increased about 1.4°C in the past 100 years, about twice the global mean (0.6°C).

Taiwan's annual weather patterns are greatly influenced by the East Asian monsoonal flow. The winter monsoon lasts from October to late March and brings steady rain to northeast Taiwan, while the central and southern parts of the island are left with mostly sunny winters. Many of Taiwan's offshore islands experience especially strong winds during the winter monsoon. The onset of the summer monsoon season is signaled by "plum rain" in May and June and usually ends in late September. High levels of precipitation fall in the south while the north is relatively dry.

Climatic Statistics for Selected Locations in Taiwan 1976-2005
City Average Temperature (˚C) Average
Annual
Rainfall (mm)
Average No. of
Rainy Days
Per Year
Annual January July
Taipei 22.8 15.9 29.4 2,351.8 164
Keelung 22.5 15.8 29.2 3,714.8 200
Taichung 23.2 16.4 28.6 1,671.5 112
Hualien 23.4 17.8 28.4 2,085.3 155
Kaohsiung 24.9 19.0 29.1 1,764.0 89
Hengchun 25.1 20.6 28.3 1,955.5 119
Source: Central Weather Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications  

As Taiwan lies close to the earth's most active tropical cyclone formation zone in the West Pacific, summer months are also marked by frequent thunderstorms and typhoons, with an average of three to four typhoons hitting Taiwan each year. Though strong winds and heavy rainfall can often cause severe damage, the storms are also a significant source of water, with windward mountain slopes sometimes receiving as much as 300 mm of rainfall in 24 hours. In 2006, four typhoons hit Taiwan, of which three—Bilis, Kaemi, and Bopha—made landfall along Taiwan's eastern coast. Typhoon Chanchu struck the Kinmen Islands before entering southern China.

Tropical Storms / Typhoons in 2006
Duration Name Category Vmax (kt)
May 9-19 Chanchu Typhoon 90
July 9-15 Bilis Tropical storm 65
July 19-26 Kaemi Typhoon 75
Aug. 6-9 Bopha Typhoon 50
Notes: Vmax is vorticity maximum; tropical storm is ≥34~<50 nm per hour (kt); severe tropical storm is ≥50~<64 kt; Typhoon is ≥64 kt
Source: Central Weather Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications

Mean annual rainfall in the Taiwan area is approximately 2,500 mm. The southern area of Taiwan receives 90 percent of its rainfall between May and October; precipitation falls more evenly in the north, with 60 percent falling between May and October. Despite Taiwan's abundant rainfall, water resources can be scarce as the nation's rivers tend to be steep and flow rapidly. Throughout the country, the driest period is between November and February.

Earthquakes

Taiwan experiences relatively frequent seismic activity due to its location on the circum-Pacific seismic belt and at the junction of the Manila and Ryukyu trenches along the west side of the Philippine Sea plate (PSP). However, most tectonic movement in Taiwan is weak and has no impact on people's lives. In fact, more than 95 percent of earthquakes cannot be detected without a seismometer.

The PSP and Eurasia plate (EUP) converge at a rate of about seven to eight centimeters per year. The convergence, which created the uplift that formed Taiwan's four central mountain ranges, continues its movement, putting most of the Taiwan area under a northwest-southeast compression. East of Taiwan, the PSP subducts northward beneath the EUP, while to the south of the island, the EUP underthrusts eastward beneath the PSP. Seismic activity in northeast and south Taiwan is associated with the two subduction zones. Activity in the rest of Taiwan is complex and less predictable. Geologists have identified 42 active faults on the island.

In central and west Taiwan, earthquakes are less frequent, of a smaller scale, and have a shallow focus. However, on September 21, 1999, a major earthquake occurred near Jiji Township in Nantou County, about 150 km to the south of Taipei, registering 7.3 on the Richter scale. It was the largest seismic event to affect Taiwan in all of the 20th century.

Penghu

Comprising 64 islets, the Penghu Islands form an archipelago lying in the Taiwan Strait roughly midway between China and Taiwan. The islands act as a natural demarcation line between the East and South China seas and, in the past, were a key stopping point for sailing ships operating in the Far East or crossing the Pacific. The islands are formed mostly of basalt and have relatively flat terrain as a result of long-term erosion. The highest point on the archipelago is located on Mao Island at 79 meters above sea level. There is some arable land on the three main islands but no rivers. Winding coastlines form numerous natural harbors and warm, shallow coastal waters favor the growth of coral.

At about 1,000 mm, annual rainfall in Penghu County is relatively low. Evaporation rates in the area are also high due to strong winds, and ensuring a sufficient water supply is therefore a high priority. At present, there are five reservoirs in Penghu and most households also have their own private wells.

Only 20 of the Penghu Islands are inhabited, with 70 percent of the population living on Penghu proper, the largest island in the archipelago. Two of the three main islands, Yuwong and Baisha, are connected by causeways and also by the longest inter-island bridge in East Asia, known as the Cross-sea Bridge.

Kinmen

The 12 islands of Kinmen are located off the southeastern coast of China's Fujian Province, a strategic military position in the Taiwan Strait that blocks the mouth of Xiamen (Amoy) Bay. The shortest distance from the main island of Kinmen to China is just 2,310 meters.

Though its satellite islets are low and flat, Kinmen Island itself is hilly. Taiwu Mountain is the island's highest point at 253 meters. Most rivers in Kinmen are short and narrow with unsteady flows, and reservoirs have therefore been constructed to ensure an adequate water supply. Zihgan Port, located in Liaoluo Bay along Kinmen Island's southern coast, is deep enough to accommodate ships of several thousand tons.

Matsu

Matsu is a minor archipelago of 36 rugged islands located at the mouth of China's Min River, less than one kilometer from the Chinese coast at the closest point and more than 185 kilometers from Keelung in north Taiwan. Nangan is the largest (10.4 sq. km) and most populous of the islands. There are two harbors in Nangan: Fu-ao and Matsu.

Though the archipelago's hilly terrain is not naturally well suited for agriculture, 10 reservoirs, 15 sea dikes, and 2 ponds have been constructed and 320 irrigation wells drilled to facilitate farming, and vegetable production has reached the point of self-sufficiency.

Other Islands

Green Island and Orchid Island are two hilly volcanic islands located off the Pacific coast of Taiwan. Green Island is located 33 km east of Taiwan proper and has an area of approximately 16 sq. km. The island is also home to one of the world's three saltwater hot springs, Jhaorih Hot Spring. Orchid Island, which is inhabited by the indigenous Yami people and lies several tens of kilometers to the south of Green Island, has an area of 46 sq. km, making it the second largest offshore island apart from Taiwan proper after Penghu. Coral reefs and abundant sea life fringe the coastlines of both islands.

Sitting just off the southwest coast of Taiwan proper, Siaoliouciou is one of the largest coral islands in the world at 6.8 sq. km. Though not particularly well suited to agriculture, the island boasts unique coral formations brought into being by eons of wind and rain erosion. Much of the coral is a brilliant crimson as it is composed primarily of iron and silicon oxides.

Taiwan maintains a historical claim to the islands of the South China Sea. Four groups of vast area: the Dongsha (Pratas) Islands, Nansha (Spratly) Islands, Sisha (Paracel) Islands, and Jhongsha (Macclesfield Bank) Islands. Currently, Taiwan's effective jurisdiction includes the Dongsha Islands and Taiping (Itu Aba) Island in the Nansha Islands.

The Dongsha Islands are located about 444 km southwest of Kaohsiung and comprise Dongsha Island and two coral reefs. Dongsha Island is a coral atoll with a land area of 2.38 sq. km. In addition to being a source of fish and minerals, the islands are also used by Taiwan as a naval outpost.

The Nansha Islands consist of 180 islets, reefs, cays, and banks in an area extending 810 km from north to south and 900 km from east to west. Taiping Island, located 700 miles southwest of Kaohsiung, is the largest island in the group with an area of just 0.48 sq. km.

To the northeast of Taiwan proper is the Diaoyutai Archipelago, a tiny group of islets located 139 km northeast of Keelung City's Pengjia Islet and with a total land area of 6.3 sq. km.

South China Sea Islands

Since 1993, the government's policy toward the region has been set by the Executive Yuan's Policy Guidelines for the South China Sea, which expresses Taiwan's desire to resolve all disputes peacefully, step up the exploration and management of resources in the South China Sea, promote cooperation with the other claimant states, and protect the ecology of the region. In keeping with its peaceful intentions, the government has shifted authority for the islands of Dongsha and Taiping from military to civilian. In 1999, responsibility for defending both islands was transferred from the Ministry of National Defense to the Coast Guard Administration of the Executive Yuan, and the administration of these islands was officially transferred to the Kaohsiung City Government.