Last year's historic transition of power - the first democratic change of government in Chinese history - saw Chen Shui-bian, a lawyer and human rights activist, assume the presidency.

Chen has spoken of his desire to "bring the Republic of China back into the international human rights system," and has established a human rights advisory group consisting of political and cultural heavyweights.

In a gradual process which began more than a decade ago, martial law has been lifted, and laws restricting the media, outlawing support for Taiwan independence, and prohibiting the formation of new political parties, have been abolished.

The Legislature - long dominated by delegates elected in mainland China and "frozen" in office - is now freely elected and functions as a vigorous and vigilant check on the executive branch.

The sea change in the political sphere is best symbolized by the transformation of Green Island. Once the site of a harsh jail where political dissidents were incarcerated, the island now hosts a monument to human rights ideals.