4. Temples

In addition to being places of devotion, Taiwan's temples are often awe-inspiring works of art in their own right, uniting ornate and refined sculpture, paintings, statuary, and ceramic figurines into a single artistic space. Of course, this esthetic environment is intended to direct the mind toward spiritual pursuits, but the living beauty of temples is well worth experiencing regardless of your religious inclinations.

Visitors are almost always welcomed in temples, even if they've only come to admire the murals. The little shrine you bump into in a tucked-away alley may be just as interesting as one that is huge and famous. So keep your eyes open as you wander the streets - you never know when you'll stumble upon a hidden treasure.

If you do enter a temple, always remember to be quiet and respectful. When a caretaker or monk is in attendance, it is a good idea to ask permission before taking pictures.

If you approach a religious statue, it is appropriate to place your hands together in front of your chest and make a little bow. This is a sign of respect - it doesn't necessarily mean you are taking part in "idol worship."

(1) Taoist Temples

Taoist temples are far more active and oriented to public life than are Buddhist temples. They are centers for worshipping the many folk gods that protect all the pursuits of daily life, like fishing, farming, business, child-birth and almost every other conceivable affair. Taoist temples are often the sites of folk festivities. For travelers interested in encountering the rich local culture, they can be the most rewarding to visit.

Taoist temples are most easily recognized by the upwardly arched eaves at the ends of their roof ridges, which are commonly adorned with a multicolored menagerie of dragons, gods and fairies.

In Taiwan, the most popular Taoist gods are Matzu, the mother goddess of the sea and protectress of sailors, and Kuan Kung, the red-faced god of war and prosperity.

(2) Buddhist Temples

Buddhist temples are not so much havens of folk culture as they are places of worship. They tend to be more quiet and subdued than Taoist temples. Many "temples" are actually monasteries where monks and nuns dedicate themselves to a secluded pursuit of enlightenment.

If a temple's name ends in "Kong," that is an indication that it is Taoist. Buddhist temples will usually be called "Sze" or "Miao." Buddhists venerate the Buddha not as a god, but as a great teacher who attained perfect enlightenment. Chinese Buddhists also worship Kuanyin the Goddess of Mercy.

Do bear in mind, however, that many temples freely mix aspects of both religions. In fact, perhaps the most popular pair of divinities in temples throughout Taiwan is the Buddhist goddess Kuanyin and the Taoist god Kuan Kung.

(3) Confucian Temples

Nearly every city and town will have a Confucian temple, which stands as a symbol of filial piety and civic responsibility, and a reflection of the esteem the citizens feel for their hometown. A Confucian temple lays pretty much undisturbed for most of the year, but springs to life in regal ceremony once a year on Confucius' birthday (September 28).

(4) Earth God Shrines

According to Chinese folk religion, every individual locale, be it a town, a community, an estate or a bump on the road, has its own protective god, or gods, that look over their neck of the woods. When hiking mountain trails, you'll often encounter these little shrines near convenient resting places. Inside, you'll usually see several diminutive figures sitting in a row, often old-looking with long white beards. These are the earth gods that protect the spot where you happen to be.

Incense is constantly lit in a cindiary urn in front of the gods. The older the gods are, and the more blackened by incense smoke, the more venerable and potent they will be. Many people passing by an earth god shrine will light a stick of incense, or three, bow with the incense three times and place the lit sticks in the urn. This shows respect and protects travelers from mishap while they're within the earth god's domain. Visitors are welcome to take part in this pleasant tradition if they care to.

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