21. Peitou

At the foot of the Tatun mountains (the main mountain group of Yangmingshan) were discovered a number of hotsprings and fumaroles, and a large sulfuric pond. It was here that the Japanese, great hotspring aficionados, built their first resort in Taiwan, Peitou. Throughout the Japanese era, the town was a bustling holiday center, and for some time a rowdy red light district.

Now incorporated into Taipei City, Peitou has become much more sedate in middle age, but many of the old Japanese inns, temples and villas have been preserved in pristine condition. The sulfuric pond, called "Hell Valley," is eerie and beautiful, but the fumarole pit on the upper slopes of Peitou may be more impressive. It's a great area to explore, especially on a cool day.

On a ridge overlooking Peitou's Zen monastery is the Shann Garden. Once a posh Japanese villa, it became the personal prison of Chang Hsueh-liang, the controversial figure who first kidnapped, then rescued Chiang Kai-shek during World War II. After he passed away, the estate was turned into a teahouse and restaurant specializing in Mongolian barbecue. The teahouse, in particular, is a must for Oriental romantics.

Next door to the Shann Garden is the Taiwan Folk Arts Museum.


22. Kuantu

The next-to-last stop on the new Tamsui MRT line, Kuantu lies nestled next to Peitou and a close dash to Tamsui and the sea. Seated at the delta of the Tamsui River and on the back slopes of Yangmingshan, this little suburb has plenty of wetlands and greenery. A wild bird sanctuary lies at the edge of town, and the Kuantu Temple is one of the oldest and most active in Taipei.

Papilio xuthus koxinga Fruhstorfer
Potentilla leucenota var. morrisonicola Hayata

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